New Book on Mario Fortuny Highlights the Artist’s Legacy

Written by Guillermo de Osma and simply titled “Fortuny: His Life and Work,” this new book about Mario Fortuny delves into the artist’s ability to make his mark in such diverse fields as painting, fashion and science.

In his captivating prose, art historian de Osma invites readers to examine the sheer brilliance of one of the world’s most original designers, which is captured in 320 pages wherein 260 of them are color and B&W illustrations.

Born in Spain and raised in Paris, but often called “the magician of Venice,” Fortuny was most associated with the Italian city where he lived and worked at the legendary Palazzo Fortuny until his death in 1949.

In addition to being one the biggest names in fashion in his day, Fortuny was a veritable Renaissance man who was equally skilled as a painter, printmaker, photographer, textile designer, set designer, lighting engineer, and inventor. However, it is Fortuny’s creativity and genius in creating beautiful clothing and accessories that has left an imprint on the fashion industry to this day.

Much of his clothing designs were inspired by classical antiquity, yet they symbolized steps toward modernity. His dresses featured finely pleated silks often adorned with glass beads, which flowed seductively over the female form, revealing its natural curves. His velvet capes were instantly popular, and the iconic Delphos gown was a favorite of notable clients like Eleanora Duse, Isadora Duncan, and Lillian Gish.

More than two decades after his death, in the late-1970s, a Fortuny Revival took place when fashion icon and muse Tina Chow introduced Fortuny to a new generation. His designs began to appear on the silver screen, on television, and in fashion magazines. Julie Christie, Lauren Hutton, Marisa Berenson, and Lauren Bacall were just a few celebrities photographed wearing Fortuny’s dresses, prompting women to find Fortuny garments to pass on to their granddaughters.

Mariano Fortuny continues to be a source of interest to designers and students, collectors and researchers, and historians and academics. His dresses are still timeless and proudly worn by women of great style. This comprehensive book shines the spotlight on all facets of Fortuny’s life and legacy, with archival and previously unpublished materials.

Photos: © Fortuny by Guillermo de Osma, Skira Rizzoli, 2016